Creating shoes for Paris-Moscou demands not only lightning reactivity – sketches are delivered sporadically – but also a level of collaboration between Chanel Maisons d’Art that is not often required. On one bejeweled model sits the imperial eagle; on another, tiny chains follow the fluting in the carved heel links of london. These elements were created by Massaro’s sister house, Desrues. After all, these are not “just” shoes, they are jewels.
When it comes to regular commis- sions, it takes Massaro about 40 hours of handiwork to create a regular pair of shoes. For Paris-Moscou, house artisans created seven models – and 70 pairs in all – some 2,000 hours of work in a matter of six weeks links of london charms. In addi- tion to the orthodox heels were others in painted resin inspired by Russian church steeples in Red Square or the curve of the legs of period furniture.
“These heels are like sculptures, so in a sense, we got to play ‘antiquaires’ [antique dealers],” laughs managing director Philippe Atienza, who knows by heart the challenges faced by the atelier since he started his career as a shoemaker himself links of london necklaces.
“It pushed us in a new direction.” THE FASHIONABLE FLOCK Stepping off the rue du Faubourg St-Denis into the Lemarié atelier is like entering Zola’s cabinet of curiosities. Tall glass-front drawers are stuffed with colourful feathers and two souvenir taxidermied birds. Sophie Lartigue, production manager exclusively for Chanel, lifts a bird of paradise, “the Rolls-Royce of birds,” from its feathered nest It is 100 years old, yet its plumage remains a spectacular spectrum of iridescent green, blue and purple discount links of london. Other feathers – from peacocks to turkeys – fill boxes that are piled up to the ceiling Some of these specimens, such as the bird of paradise, are now protected, so finding feathers is an increasingly tricky business. Which is why Lemarié is not just about feathers anymore.